Pattern Grading: A Beginner's Guide
Pattern grading is one of the essential skills you need to master to excel in pattern making. At the core, pattern grading involves resizing a base pattern, also known as a master pattern. The base size, sometimes called the sample size, is the original starting point from which other sizes are developed.
This original pattern serves as the initial template used for grading, ensuring consistency and fit across the size range. Essentially, you create a master pattern and grade it up (increase) or down (decrease) without altering the original design.
Pattern grading saves you the trouble of recreating a pattern over and over to create a style of different proportions, which can be a laborious process. New sizes are created from the base size through the grading process.
In this post, we will dive into the concept of pattern grading, the importance of using grade patterns, the different grading rules, and the different grading methods you can try.
Understanding Pattern Grading in Fashion Design
Pattern grading adjusts the size of a clothing pattern to different body sizes without altering the original style and proportion. It can be done manually with tools like rulers and grading machines, with a grading ruler being an essential tool for accuracy, or digitally using sophisticated software.
For basic manual grading, the only tools required are a pencil, ruler, scissors, and measuring tape. Pattern grading can also be used in mass production by applying it to commercial patterns.
Key concepts include grade rules, which dictate how much the pattern increases or decreases between sizes. Grading increments are the systematic measurement adjustments made between sizes.
Measurement is crucial for determining how much each pattern piece should be adjusted. Horizontal lines and vertical lines are marked on the pattern as reference points for grading. Slash lines are used to guide where the pattern is cut and spread during grading. For example, when grading a bodice pattern, both the front and back pieces are adjusted proportionally to maintain fit and style.
Importance of Pattern Grading in the Fashion Industry
Why is pattern grading important to you as a pattern maker?
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Consistency in Fit Across Sizes: Pattern grading ensures that every size variant of a garment provides a consistent fit, which is essential for brand credibility and customer loyalty. Consumers expect the same style and comfort in a size XS as they do in a size XL, and effective grading makes this possible.
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Cost Efficiency: By allowing designers to create multiple sizes from a single basic pattern, grading reduces the time and cost associated with developing individual patterns for each size. This efficiency is crucial in keeping production costs down and maintaining a competitive edge in the fast-paced fashion market.
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Enhanced Design Scalability: Grading allows fashion designers and companies to reach a broader audience by making their designs accessible to people of different sizes and body types. This inclusivity can significantly expand market reach and increase sales potential.
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Quality Control: Proper pattern grading helps in maintaining the quality and integrity of the design through all sizes. It ensures that the enlargements or reductions in the pattern do not distort the original design aesthetics or functionality.
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Innovation and Flexibility: With advancements in digital pattern grading, designers have more flexibility to experiment with complex designs and intricate details. Modern software not only speeds up the process but also increases precision, allowing for innovation and faster response to market trends.
What Are Pattern Grading Rules?
Pattern grading rules are the specific measurements and increments used to enlarge or reduce a pattern to create different sizes from the original. Grading rules can be based on specific customer measurements or general body measurements, allowing for a more tailored and inclusive fit.
These rules determine how much the pattern will change between sizes and are crucial for achieving proper fit and comfort. For consistent sizing, most patterns require grading rules to be applied to the whole pattern, ensuring that all parts of the garment are adjusted proportionally.
Methods for Pattern Grading
There are different methods for resizing sewing patterns without a loss in form. The three basic methods used to grade a pattern are as follows:
Cut and Spread Method
This is by far the easiest method for grading a pattern. As the name suggests, it involves creating a pattern and cutting it along the fold lines. Slash lines are marked on the pattern to indicate exactly where to cut for spreading or overlapping the pieces.
The cut pieces are then spread or receded by a certain amount to create a consistent pattern. To grade up, the gap between the pieces is increased uniformly. To grade down, the distance is receded, causing the pieces to overlap.
Pattern Shifting
In pattern shifting, the pattern pieces are moved around at a constant distance and traced out on paper. This approach is also known as the shift method. To make it smaller, the pattern is moved inwards by a small distance from a fixed point, up by the same amount and then traced. The process is reversed to make the pattern bigger.
The shift method is designed to achieve the same results as other grading techniques, such as cut and spread.
Computer Grading
This method involves making use of computer software programs, such as Adobe Illustrator, to grade patterns. It’s faster and more efficient.
Grading Manually vs. Digital Tools
When it comes to grading sewing patterns, pattern makers can choose between grading manually or using digital tools. Grading manually involves hands-on techniques like the spread method or pattern shifting, where each pattern piece is adjusted by hand to create different sizes.
This process can be quite laborious, requiring a keen eye for detail and a solid understanding of body types to ensure the graded patterns properly fit a range of customers. Manual grading is often used for simple patterns or when only a few sizes are needed.
On the other hand, digital pattern grading has revolutionized the fashion industry, especially in mass production. With digital tools such as Adobe Illustrator, pattern makers can quickly and accurately grade a base pattern into multiple sizes.
Digital pattern grading automates much of the process, reducing the risk of human error and allowing for rapid adjustments to keep up with market trends. Whether you’re working with commercial patterns or custom designs, digital tools make it easier to create, modify, and validate patterns for all body types and sizes. While grading manually still has its place, especially for unique or complex styles, most pattern makers now rely on digital pattern grading for its speed, efficiency, and precision.
How to Grade a Pattern
Watch the video below to learn how you can efficiently grade a pattern like a pro.
Best Practices for Pattern Gradin
To achieve the best results in pattern grading, pattern makers should follow a set of best practices. Start with a high-quality base pattern that is accurate and well-constructed, as this will serve as the foundation for all graded sizes. Establish clear and consistent grading rules to maintain proper proportions and avoid fit inconsistencies. Leveraging digital tools can greatly enhance accuracy and efficiency, especially when creating multiple sizes.
It’s also important to validate fit and quality throughout the grading process, using techniques like 3D prototyping and fit testing to catch any issues early. Tools such as Browzwear’s Design in Sizes can help streamline the creation of multiple size variations within a single digital file. By combining technical skills, attention to detail, and the right digital tools, pattern makers can create graded patterns that fit well, are consistent in quality, and meet the needs of a diverse customer base.
FAQs
Not exactly. Resizing often involves scaling up or down all measurements uniformly, while grading is a more precise technique that accounts for how body proportions change across sizes.
Basic grading tools include a ruler, French curve, notcher, grading ruler, pencil, and tracing paper. Digital tools like Adobe Illustrator or CAD software are useful for advanced users.
Yes! While formal training helps, many beginners successfully learn grading through online tutorials, books, and practice. Starting with simple patterns is a great way to build confidence.
Grading increments are usually based on industry standards or specific customer measurements. For example, the bust may increase by 1 inch per size, while the shoulder may increase by 0.25 inches.
